Thursday, July 1, 2010
Kilcar is a small town on the southern end of Donegal County, in the northwest corner of Ireland. Jeff and I made it that way several times, and truly fell in love with the landscape. Kilcar is only about 1.5 hours from Omagh, and it is where my grandmothers’ family hails from. Her cousin currently still lives in the family home two miles out of town, in this beautiful valley very close to the ocean. The town itself is a one street sort of place with four pubs, some other shops, and an impressive hand weavery. It was once a fishing town, but now the space nearest an inlet of the ocean is a Gaelic football pitch. Perhaps the most beautiful place in the world to play a sport, though thoroughly miserable during ocean storms I’m sure!
So grandma’s cousin’s son, Kevin, and his family Maureen, Chris, and Kenny welcomed us into their home for two nights. We arrived on Saturday late and were greeted by a cup of tea, and then went out to John Joe’s for a pint (or three) and music. We are not ashamed to say it—Kevin was definitely slowing down with the pints so that we could keep up. The music was really good, a blend of contemporary and traditional Irish with banjo, guitars, and an electric fiddle. Kevin and Maureen knew absolutely everyone in the place, and it was packed until 2am with people of all ages. We were totally spent, but went home for another cupa and chatted until 3:30. Yikes!
The next morning we all slept in and awoke to a proper fry up. I have spoken about these before, it is what I tried to make for St. Patrick’s—eggs, potato bread, beans, tomatoes, bacon, black pudding, white pudding, and fried mushrooms. Just all of the vegetarian things was plenty breakfast for me, I do not know how they put it away! And Maureen is a tiny thing. That day we went out and about to Silver Strand beach and got a view of the lighthouse on Rathlin Island where my great grandfather worked. Grandma remembers him telling stories about rowing his boat out to an island for a week at a time with one other young man, and talking about the silver beach nearby, so this one must be the one. Very special. We also drove through the countryside for a while down tiny roads and heard about all the folks who lived here and there. Our final destination for the day was Port, a small secluded old fishing port where it is suspected illegal drugs enter the country because it is so out of the way! No one lives there, but as it happens, locals sun there on such a nice day.
Back at home we had Chinese takeaway and chatted Gaelic football with Chris. He is 14 and would love to come to America someday and visit. I think he would fit right in and could teach the cousins a new game. He is very sharp and certainly not shy, so I think he would fit in with the Wagner clan very well. The boys watched a match and the ladies (including Kevin’s sister Ethine, pronounced Etna, who has visited the Chicago sisters) chatted it up in the kitchen with a bottle of wine. Conversation centered on what Jeff and I are doing in Clanabogan and spiritual mediums, which are much more respected and common than they are at home. Good craic, you might say.
The next morning was a national holiday, so we slept in again. Then another beautiful breakfast of breads, cheese, tomatoes and salted butter (!!! We miss salted butter!!!) and we visited the family home which sits just 50 yards up the hill from the house we stayed in. We met grandma’s cousin and had a wee chat with a couple of Kevin’s brothers. Jeff and I said goodbye to everyone and set off around noon for a boat trip along the coast to see the sea cliffs. It was nice, but actually I liked seeing them from the top better than from the bottom. We were the only tourists on the boat and we were the closest vessel to a mayday call, so we had to respond to it. Surreal! The coastguard helicopter was hovering in the distance, and that was what we were aiming for. We were called off before we got there because it was just a mechanical problem and the coastguard was on the way, but very nerve wracking for a while! On the way out of town we stopped at the Donegal weavery in town to check things out there—a very different operation from what I have been doing but everything is still woven by hand albeit in very large quantities. Jeff found himself a scarf, and I enjoyed looking. Unfortunately the boat and subsequent car ride home left me car sick, a damper on the weekend, but all together a lovely time. The family was incredibly gracious and more than happy to have us out again, and I am pretty sure that we will be able to return the favor when Chris comes out some day. Good times, I just do not know why I didn’t manage to see them earlier!
Monday, April 19, 2010
The same day Dan and TA left the island, Jeff’s friends Cody and Kate came to visit. They joined right in on the Easter weekend celebrations, and then we all headed down to
From Cinque Terre we took a train to
The next night was our splurge night—we drove into Chianti through rain and a little snow (!) and stayed at a vineyard agriturissimo. We spent the afternoon in front of a fire trying to warm up our chilled bodies. There were barely any other guests there that evening, and so we had the restaurant and therefore a chef and waitress to ourselves for a four course meal! Imagine all the candles lit and fireplace crackling, a bottle of wine, and olive oil chocolate on cheese. Amazing. Photos speak:
Unfortunately, we left my passport there and drove back to
Sunday, March 21, 2010
I will start in the middle. The morning began in a wonderful way, making a proper Ulster Fry for the house. Check photos on Wiki. This breakfast is actually a minor feast of grease, fat, and as an afterthought, tomatoes. Two flats of bacon, two sausages, eggs, tomatoes, fried soda bread, fried potato bread, and mushrooms all fried in a particular order and with a lot of butter and sausage/bacon grease. We were all rolling after that, even the vegetarians. Jeff and I decided that we have just developed a St. Patrick's custom to bring home and share.
So that seems Irish enough, right? We spent the afternoon with the house out at the Ulster American Folk Park, a living history museum, where we walked around and saw a play of sorts about a living or American wake (which was what they called a going away party for an emigrating person). The weather here has been gorgeous lately, two days rain in the past two weeks, and it was nice to be outside. We chilled out the rest of the day and had a nice supper. Everyone went to bed early, completely exhausted.
Now, rewind. We could not celebrate out on the town on the day proper, so we went out with maybe a dozen people the night before while Lukas covered the house. We went to a place called Sally's for drinks and music, and sat around happily chatting with our Guinness/cider. Things changed quickly when tiny creme de menthe and Bailey's shots appeared. We had a toast with the Rainbow House co-workers shortly after those, and then Niklas (new Rainbow co-worker) wanted to treat Jeff and I as well. Now, keep in mind that Omagh was the site of a major car bombing in 1998, and is perhaps not a good place to order an Irish Car Bomb (a Guinness/Jameson/Baileys mixed drink). He was not stupid to order it by that name, but instead ordered all the components seperately and came back to the table with three full pints and the Bailey's and Jameson in shot glasses. This was a larger undertaking than either of us were prepared for, but I suppose many people have had that thought on St. Patrick's day before... a half hour later the bar closed and forced everyone upstairs to the club, complete with spinny lights and the dance club version of Irish favorites such as "I'll Tell me Ma" blasting with a techno beat. Few were wearing green, but many women were wearing skirts as short as my shirt. Though this is not normally our scene, due to the aforementioned activity, we had a good time! We left most of our party still dancing and caught taxi around 1:30.
So like I said, not exactly what we were expecting. But still a fun time. Waking up the next morning to fry up all that food was difficult, but the result was well worth it.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Friday, February 26, 2010
Feb. 26th, 2010
Back in the swing of things here. This week we had a lazy day on our free day, only leaving to go to the post office (straggler thank-you notes). Then we snuggled up with a Reese’s peanut butter cup, two wee bags of thai sweet chili crisps (chips), and caught up on the recent episodes of Glee. We are six weeks or so behind yall in the states, and it is very tempting to watch ahead, but our frustratingly slow internet connection squashed that impulse. The Reese’s were smuggled in from
Later this week we had our supervision meetings to talk about how we are doing in Clanabogan. They are modeled for young co-workers, and the sheet we had to guide the meeting was rather frustrating. Most of the questions do not apply to us. So we laughed off many of them and had good, productive conversations instead. Jeff’s meeting brought about a change in his daily life which has been a big relief to him. You could ask him about it, but this is not the proper place to type it out. My meeting was just nice to have—no changes really, but a good conversation and good self reflection. Both meetings were very positive, and we were grateful for the reinforcement. I have been feeling good about the way things are going in the house generally. There are always little hiccups here and there, but the fact that they have all been little things is great. Somehow this week we are both very tired (I blame the Olympics, which air live starting at 11pm) but feeling good about our accomplishments in Rainbow house.
Monday, February 22, 2010
Amazingly, there are several very dedicated readers of our blog though we are not very dedicated bloggers. I am going to attempt to do this more often rather than posting huge ones once a month (no comment from Jeff, though). First, a couple photos:
My recent spring cleaning issue-- the holiday decorations
The cat in our manger at Christmas
A coastline in Sligo which we walked last week
Jeff, on the same walk, contemplating his next step
Over Valentines weekend we went to
about my two favorite things, which were the food and the Jack the Ripper tour. Imagine a hundred tourists standing around in the dark, some with clear plastic ponchos despite clear skies, following around a dude with a wheely suitcase and a stool. Funny scene. We walked around what was old
been severely lacking tasty tidbits here in
by one family for six generations, and the rafters were literally brushing my hair as I walked around. On offer are three things—beer, pickled eggs with vinegar chips, and baps (buns). Pickled eggs are, by the way, fabulous. On your bun you can order a variety of options, all of them meat or cheese. Jeff got ox tongue, which apparently tastes like baloney. I got the strong cheddar bun which is literally a bun with a half pound of cheese on it. It was
amazing, but definitely more cheese than I could ever eat myself. Here is a photo of the cheese. After lunch we visited a nearby sacred old yew tree, estimated to be around 1000 years old. There are all sorts of random sacred things around here.
We flew late at night, took a bus back to Omagh, and a taxi to the community to get in bed by 2:30am. The next morning we were up by seven to wake people up! I do not know how it came to be that all the people here are woken up by us (my previous experience shows me that most people can wake with an alarm). But that morning we were especially cursing the pattern that has been laid out for us.
More to come, sooner than later. This is unofficially my last big post, hopefully to be replaced by more frequent but smaller ones.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Chelsea: Well hello everyone! This is a real time update, not another thing I have been working on for weeks and am just now posting. Here is what is on my mind today.
On Monday, the whole life changes. Our kitchen in Rainbow house is being re-done into this beautiful model-home kitchen. We already know what it will look like because there is a twin home here, called Sunrise, and they have already finished their kitchen. There will be a beautiful tile floor, five (count em, FIVE) sinks which incidentally each have specific purposes under health code, granite counter tops, a new window, a new larder, new cabinets, better lighting, and a copper fume hood. Custom made dish sinks made to fit people more generally so that we do not have to bend over to do the dishes. We will still have the aga, but they're also putting in a range with an oven (read: proper temperature regulation for baking). Finally, a dish washer. If anyone can imagine doing dishes by hand for a family gathering or party of 12-20 people, then imagine doing that three times a day, you have an idea of how excited I may be for a dish washer.
This big change brings about all sorts of little ones. Our cooking crew is shifting over to Sunrise and their new kitchen, and Jill will no longer be in the crew. She will move to another house so that Catherine can cook in Sunrise again. What I hear is that Catherine is a wonderful cook and very efficient, so I am excited to see what we can do together! In reality I am only really cooking three days a week now. The bakery makes us pizza one day, a support worker (employed by the community to help out) cooks on Sundays, and I have a big meeting every Wed. so Christina has to cook on her own... more on home group meeting later. Besides cooking changes, we also are all spreading out over different houses for our lunch meal. Lucky for us, Jeff and I at least still get to eat together, and then run back home for a little R and R.
Home group. This has been slowly ramping up as one of my additional responsibilities. Wednesdays are a funny day for me. I attend this meeting, which is all about every big or little thing that needs talking about in the community, with the home coordinators of each house. These are the mover and shaker people who really run the administrative side of Clanabogan. They do not make every decision alone, but most things at least start in this meeting. I am learning a lot about the way things work here, and tucking tidbits away for future use. Later in the day we head to Introductory Course with all the young co-workers, and I get the other very basic side of things-- what is respect, how do we ensure safety in the tub, antidiscrimination policies etc. So I find myself a unique bridge between these two groups. I am quite comfortable in the young crowd meetings, and generally feel a need to help those meetings along with participation. My footing in home group was initially tenuous, but I am starting to feel the ground there and I am speaking up more when I have options or opinions. There is this funny thing that I think can be found in many do-gooder non-profits everywhere... do-gooders are not always so practical. We weave and tip around subjects, someone forgets their point, another brings a new one in the middle of a current point, someone brings us back to center... repeat. No kidding, it took us 25 minutes to figure out where everyone from our house could eat. So I find myself often drifting between daydreaming and bringing up poignant ideas that are often solutions. Oh, inefficiency mingled with efficiency mingled with bleeding hearts on everyone's sleeves.
Tonight we are celebrating my birthday with tacos. Old El Passo has a complete monopoly on the Mexican fare here, so you can imagine exactly what we will be eating. Add to those staples home made guacamole and salsa, and I am quite excited. We are having our house dinner early because two guys from the house, David and Christopher, are leaving tomorrow to visit home for the weekend. It was absolutely crushing to David that he would miss my birthday dinner (because he thinks everyone wants sausages and chips on their birthday), so we moved it up. In a wonderful but completely unnecessary gesture, his mother drove 20 minutes from Kesh to bring a gift for me. Likely, a tin of chocolates. We are still working on the tins we got at the holidays! After supper, I have a distinct idea that Jeff is taking me to a Jazz ensemble and dinner (second dinner). Maybe I have this thought because I told him it would be a nice idea for my birthday. Perhaps I will even get him to dance with me. We will see! More on all that next time. I leave you with a few completely unrelated photos:
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
January 4th, 2010
Greetings in the new year! Many, many things have happened since that last posting, what with the holidays and all. Here is a brief update on the facts, and some fun as well.
1. We moved into the house over boxing day and have since welcomed everyone home from their holiday breaks with their families. The house is remarkably calm after such a big switch, considering how difficult it is to accept change sometimes. The rooms are nice and we can sleep a little longer in the morning.
2. A new co-worker is moving in, a Dutch guy named Gawan. He is 19 and his mother is very concerned that he gets enough to eat here—I do not think that will be a problem, seeing as one of his “responsibilities” will be to attend three meals a day and be served by yours truly.
3. Another person is moving in as well, Lukas. He grew up here, and his dad already lives in Rainbow. He is taking on more responsibility with the house and will be here over night with us, which will be helpful if Jeff and I want a date night. Unlike Gawan, he already knows the house well and will not need an adjustment period.
4. Christmas was interesting. We are perhaps more tired now than we were before! Jeff and I were Mary and Joseph in the play in the barn on Christmas Eve, complete with calves which pushed out of their pen at the end of the play (and then stood in the hall, very unsure of what to do!). We had a big meal both Christmas Eve and Christmas, lots of cultural events since then, a New Years game night put on by yours truly, and now we are celebrating Three Kings and singing lots. Yikes. The weavery is calling my name.
So. We have two conflicting desires right now. The general theme of the season and holiday is rest, and we are resting. But we are also feeling the urge to get going here, and organize ourselves. The day to day stuff is old hat to us, because we have experienced most of that since October. However, there are administrative things that we are learning now, and part of that is organizing the house so that we can understand it and administer! The office needs a clean-up (overhaul?), medicine needs attention, monthly reports, and all the Christmas refuse needs to be dealt with. When we return to work on Thursday, I will be in the house cooking and doing what needs doing in the morning, and Jeff will technically be “in the house” in the afternoons. For him, that means organizing things, running errands, being nurse if someone is sick, and otherwise going to work in the garden if there is nothing here to do. Anyway, we will both have loads of time to do what needs doing here, and somehow I cannot believe that we will actually need all of that time. So we are trying to resist the urge to get moving, enjoy the relaxing time, and use the time allotted to us later.
Weather—feels like home, which is to say, incredibly cold and snowy for people here. There is an arctic air mass blah-de-blah and its cold. The irritating part of this is that there is still ice on the roads and it can be quite “slippy” in places. So the community has made the decision that none of the “villagers” should go walking about unaccompanied until further notice. Jeff and I both raised our eyebrows at that. Right now, there are two of us here and five people who are to be escorted everywhere. It is not practical, and most often not necessary. One would have to try pretty hard to slip on the path we take to and fro. So that has been annoying, but we are too-proud Minnesotans who know how to walk (and even drive!) on ice and we should remember it, so we have kept out mouths shut. Meanwhile, our people often “forget” that they need one of us with and walk to the hall alone anyway.
This reminds me. There are no inbetweener aged people here. Either you are 20 or 50, or a child of a person who chooses to live here. This is a general problem in Camphill, finding people to carry the torch if you will. Anja, our mentor here and a really lovely woman, has been making sideways comments about us staying on for life here. Beyond us, there is one guy in his 20s like us who may stick around in community for a while, but that’s it. Stagnataion.
Well, that is all for now. Happy winter!